Steven Wright and Philip Cartwright have known each other for 30 years. They both trained as student nurses in Blackburn and have remained firm friends ever since.
Steven entered Freemasonry about a year after Phil who proposed him into Kings Lodge No 3101.
Steve and Phil beginning the walk from Segedunum Roman Museum in Wallsend.
Steven says they share similar values and had often wondered whether they could engage in an activity which would be both challenging (especially for two middle aged blokes) and serve as a vehicle that might bring about some fund raising for the West Lancashire Freemasons’ Charity.
It had to be tough, different and mentally challenging. So what better than combining history and sheer physical attrition than walking Hadrian’s Wall and trail? According to the guide books and National Trail Manager David McGlade, the walk can be done in six days by people who are used to walking several days at a time and are fit. This being a challenge, Steven said; “We were neither, and wanted to do it in five days!
It took three Legions a total of 14 years to construct the wall covering 73 miles in length, with a height of 15 feet and a width measuring between 8 and 10 feet. The length of the actual trail itself was some 84 miles. Anyhow, with the support of our lodge and subsequently so many lodges in the Province of West Lancashire (thanks for everything guys) we spent a year planning, walking and desperately hoping for a good result on the fund raising.
Eventually the time came when we could plan no more and had to get on with it! So on 29 May we boarded a mega bus from Manchester and headed to Wallsend which is East of Newcastle and the starting point, for our pre-walk stopover.
Our method of validation for the walk was a ‘passport’ which had to be stamped in seven different venues along the length of the wall which then qualifies walkers for a certificate and a badge of achievement.
Arriving at the Hadrian Lodge Hotel on the Sunday we took the opportunity to jump on the Metro and take a quick look around and a sample of the delights which Newcastle City Centre had to offer gastronomically and culturally. Reminiscent of most large cities the ‘night life’ was a little boisterous for our liking so we opted for the more relaxed atmosphere of a Japanese restaurant and the polite courtesy to be found therein. A couple of pints of Guiness to top it off and we were ready for the trip the following day.
Day 1 – Wallsend to Heddon on the Wall, Distance 15-16 miles.
We collected our first stamp at the Segedunum Fort in Wallsend on a damp day with very fine rain but spirits were high as some local Japanese tourists kindly took the pictures for us wearing our Charity T Shirts.
View from Heddon on the Wall looking back towards Newcastle.
This was the start of a 15 mile trek following the course of the Tyne walking past the old Swan Hunter Shipyard in the typical decay of many shipyards in this country, as it winds its way through Newcastle Town Centre. Hardly any wall to see however but plenty of local industrial history left behind such as lead and tar works which had devastated the Tyne and its wildlife.
Signs on the foreshore warned people to keep away. Probably one of the lows of the journey. Once we got into Newcastle Town Centre though things began to improve with plenty of Attractive architecture and things to see. The people in Newcastle were fantastic and very friendly. A number enquired about the representation of the badge so we of course took the opportunity to speak to them about it. All were very complimentary although a few thought we were raising money for heart charities.
A very gentle 15 miles eventually heading into our first stop at Heddon on the Wall when we began hauling uphill through some wonderful countryside where we billeted for the night at Houghton North Farm (hostel type accommodation) whose owner Paula made us most welcome and prepared a fabulous breakfast the next day.
We met a young German gentleman on a similar odyssey (although over seven days I might add) for which we allowed ourselves a little puffing out of the chest feathers, or had we bitten off more than we could chew? With hindsight and despite the early downside of post industrial decay, this first day was certainly for Phil the most enjoyable one. We passed other walkers in larger groups heading towards us and obviously nearing the end of their own particular adventure.
Day 2 – Heddon on the Wall to Grindon, Distance 24 miles.
The day we had dreaded most arrived with our anticipation and reservation about the distance and gradient involved bearing fruit. Thankfully the weather was just right being fairly cool, some sunshine and with an oncoming breeze. The walking was almost continually uphill keeping parallel with the B6318 and although we were travelling with light rucksacks by about 12 miles in it was hurting!
The first real visible stretch of wall just outside of Chollerford.
Collecting our second stamp at the Robin Hood Inn in East Wallhouse we took the opportunity to rest for a short while and then soldiered on until eventually we finally came upon the first decent surviving section of the wall just outside of Chollerford known as Chesters Fort. It was here at Chesters Fort and managed by English Heritage that we finally obtained stamp number three.
Unfortunately we had crossed to the wrong side of the river and had to retrace our steps adding another two miles onto the journey which in total for the day was actually 26! The temptation was to use the rucksacks as a floatation aid and swim across but we felt that English Heritage might not approve, plus Phil swims like a brick!
We still had eight miles to our second stop for the night at the Old Repeater Station and hove in for a quick tin of soup on a primus stove at Black Carts Turret. By the time we reached the Station we were so
exhausted that we didn’t even take a picture. However, fellow hostellers were very nice and we swapped tales of the trip. The food was okay and the accommodation very impressive for a youth hostel. Being slightly older than Phil I went to bed after supper with a good book but as we had been informed by Paula previously, the Youth Hostel Leader was a collector of fine Scotch and Irish Whiskey and was fairly insistent on sampling a dram or two with Phil. Last time Phil saw our host he was asleep on the couch downstairs.
Day three – Grindon to Upper Denton, Distance 16 miles.
A damp start to the day but an early success with stamp four at Housesteads and another Roman museum. Without doubt this was the hardest day psychologically. We had now entered the unknown in terms of consecutive walking and distance involved.
The remains of Roman ovens and bakery.
Although not the greatest distance, the terrain was undulating following the course of the military way, one minute up pretty vertical then a few steps forward and down again repeated on what felt like a continuous loop at times. The weather was cold with a stiff breeze and gusts that occasionally took away your breath. In places we had to walk alongside the busy B6318 which was a fairly lethal undertaking. The blisters were huge and there seemed to be no end in sight. As ever we had started walking from about 8am, usually finishing around 5 or 6pm.
Walking into the wind and the climbing involved had taken its toll and it took two hours to cover four miles to the roman museum at Birdoswald. Falling through the door at the museum was the sweetest experience all day, although the sight of our two wind burnt faces and dishevelled appearance provoked a couple of glances.
Chesters Fort.
Two coachloads of Chinese tourists took the opportunity of taking a photo or two of us whilst we draped ourselves over the nearest supports. Stamp five was obtained at the Fort. As ever the scenery had been fantastic and places such as King Arthurs Well were absolutely breath-taking with panoramic views stretching to the horizon. We managed to find our lodgings for the evening at Bush Nook Bed and Breakfast which was lovely and Malcolm the landlord could not do enough to help. Although he did not provide evening dining he gave us a lift into Greenhead along with some other guests, where we ate and then returned to pick us up later all part of the service.
Mobile telephone reception was dreadful although we had an indication that members of the lodge had been trying to ring us for support which really helped that evening and for us became a turning point as we decided that failure was not an option. So we turned in to watch the apprentice on BBC looking like Eric Morecambe and Ernie Wise in our twin bedroom and pyjamas for those who can remember! Howard and Tom from our lodge attempted contact but reception was so poor that it was limited. However, at least we knew that people were trying to convey encouragement and good wishes which helped tremendously.
Day four – Upper Denton to Carlisle, Distance 16 miles.
Somehow it just felt better, as we left it was almost as if body and mind had self-assessed and decided it was all systems go and although we were badly blistered we nonetheless remained unconquered determined to carry on.
We had walked parts of this section previously during our practice runs so knew what to expect. From here on in the gradient was all downhill, the weather fine with a little light breeze. Many of the areas we passed through such as Banks, Walton and Newton all had that chocolate box feel about them. As we walked we came across numerous honesty boxes containing drinks and snacks. Just pop in the money and walk away. Fantastic. The scenery was breathtaking as we took off and, just as a further measure of good omen, we received telephone calls from Howard Jones, Tom Ryan, Les Siddell and Haldane Eccles all from our lodge wishing us well. Perfect!
After the previous days everything was just right as we continued on through Crosby-on-Eden, Linden and around the back of Carlisle Airport finally arriving at the Sands Leisure Centre for stamp number six. Our final staging post, the County Hotel, was some way off the trail ending for the day so we decided to treat ourselves to a taxi to the hotel. The taxi driver asked about the T Shirts and soon as the word Freemason was mentioned he insisted on an appropriate greeting and then told us about his lodge membership, and spoke about Carlisle No 10. He wished us well and waived away any idea of a tip and charged next to nothing for the ride. We knew then that we could do it. The final day was a comfortable 14 miles across beautiful open countryside and the Solway Marsh which is an area of outstanding beauty we felt full of optimism. After settling in and to celebrate thus far we decided to walk the 300yds into Carlisle (still quite tender), and have a pizza with a couple of beers. Then to bed for 9pm.
Day five – Carlisle to Bowness on Solway, Distance 14 miles.
Up and at em by 8.30am and away. One slight twist in the tale however, the sun was beating down frantically and one thing I don’t do is the sun. So we loaded up with as much water as we could carry and left the outskirts of Carlisle behind into suburbia and beyond.
Arrival in Carlisle.
The countryside once again was green to the horizon, coloured with all of the flowers of the season and the whole area was alive with birds, rabbits and deer. We meandered through miles of peaceful, rolling countryside which really makes you think about what is on offer in your own backyard. My wife and son were coming to meet us at the end so that was also something to look forward to.
Our daughters had been ringing on a daily basis when reception allowed to ensure that we hadn’t been eaten by something in the countryside, both city girls you see. Sometimes, the nearer something is then the harder it is to reach it. The effort was finally catching up to us and rest stops were becoming more and more frequent, the last mile was pretty slow. Crossing through Dykesfield we had to ensure that we had the tidal times correct as the area would flood if the high tide was over nine and a half metres. Thankfully it was eight and a half metres so we trekked on.
The actual wall had long ceased to exist and we were on the final leg of the trail. With Drumburg passed and Port Carlisle on the horizon with only Bowness on Solway beyond we just needed to keep putting one foot in front of the other. The sun continued to burn the backs of the legs and progress slowed. However, a familiar little black car came trundling around the corner with hands waving furiously out of the window (thankfully she does use two hands on the steering wheel) and motored on into Bowness awaiting our arrival. Thus spurred on we made the final distance walking into Bowness on Solway and thus ending our 84 mile journey.
The pain!
We then headed off to the Kings Arms in Bowness on Solway for that all important seventh stamp, commemorative badge and certificate of achievement which we now both proudly hold. Would we do it again? I’m not sure and probably too early to say. The walk was tremendous but extremely difficult and mentally very challenging.
We certainly learnt a lot about ourselves and each other, even after 30 years. The planning was probably the most challenging part of it and without our families or the support of the lodge and in particular Tom Ryan we could not have done this. At least one day per week for almost a year was dedicated to foot slogging for up to eight hours on end and various consecutive days also. I’m glad we did it and I am thrilled that with everyone’s support we have managed to raise £8,500 so far, but more donations are being received by the charity office.
What next? Who knows, Offas Dyke in 12 days perhaps? I’ve always fancied doing something with a classic motorbike and a mid-life crisis around the coast of Britain, hairy biker style, but have never learnt how to ride one. Ah well just another obstacle!
Finally Phil and I would like to send a huge message of thanks and gratitude to every one of those lodges and brethren therein who offered support by any means.”
If you would like to donate to the funds raised by Steven and Philip contact the West Lancashire Freemasons’ charity on 01514824757.
Journey’s end at Bowness on Solway.